reduce fuel

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m_abdi
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reduce fuel

Post by m_abdi » Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:45 am

hi.
how do i can understand about fuel pomp?
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JP86SS
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Post by JP86SS » Thu Jan 21, 2010 6:28 pm

ATBF is the actual "bin" file software code that runs in the ECM.
To edit the parameters you will need an XDF definition file that identifies where each parameter is located in the bin file.
The XDF also scales the values so they are in "units" you can understand while editing.
The XDF is specific to the "Mask ID" of the bin file.
The mask ID sets the wiring of the external components to the hardware within the ECM so it can work with the software correctly.
You will need to research (or search the beginning of the bin file in the hex editor) to determine which one you need to load.
HTH
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m_abdi
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thanks

Post by m_abdi » Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:39 pm

thank you
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robertisaar
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Post by robertisaar » Thu Apr 08, 2010 1:14 pm

i imagine you had to deal with a rather rough learning curve...

do those export models use an O2 sensor? i thought i remmeber reading that GM left that out depending on the market it was exported to.

as far as adjusting things: to do that, you'll need either an EEPROM Burner or an emulator. a burner is the cheaper route, though you wouldn't be able to make real-time changes. the simplest way of reading the stock BIN from the chip you have now is to get a HDR1 from Moates.net and plug that in to the stock MEMCAL and using a burner, you would be able to pull the BIN off.

if those cars do use O2 sensors though, you could probably update to the $A1 mask since it's a lot more documented and would make tuning easier.

m_abdi
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Post by m_abdi » Sat Jan 14, 2012 11:23 am

Hello Again

Thank you for replay.
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robertisaar
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Post by robertisaar » Tue Jan 17, 2012 10:12 pm

i imagine you could add the sensor, if you truly wanted to.

keep in mind if you used fuel with any lead in it, it will quickly degrade the O2 sensor.

the ~450mV value that shows up is from the ECM itself. even though the sensor is not present, the ECM itself "biases" the signal up to roughly 450mV, then when the sensor heats up to the point of operating correctly, the voltage will change based on exhaust content.

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Post by m_abdi » Wed Jan 18, 2012 1:43 am

it can not install in ecu. thanks
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Post by robertisaar » Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:00 am

the O2 sensor will show as "ready" whenever the signal it produces starts to wander outside of the ~300-600 mV range, at that point, the ECM believes that the O2 sensor is warm enough to start using it for closed loop fueling control.

it is possible that your car is an $88 car, but without actually having the BIN to inspect, there isn't any way to know for certain if it is $6D or $88.

since the ECM was never intended to have an O2 sensor with your current calibration, i would assume closed loop fueling was disabled by GM by setting the coolant temp requirement to allow closed loop to an unreachable number (~304 *F). if that value was changed to a number more like what is used here for O2 sensor equipped cars (usually between 100 and 149 *F), then i'm almost certain that closed loop fueling would start.

at the 900 to 1050mV range, you certainly are running very rich of stoichiometric.

to confirm what mask the car truly is, and to allow closed loop operation, you would need to both read and program a PROM.

m_abdi
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thanks

Post by m_abdi » Wed Jan 18, 2012 10:42 pm

dear robert

thank you for replay.
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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Thu Jan 19, 2012 10:47 am

There's some hardware you need to read your bin. The bin is the file on your chip.

This inserts into the memcal to read the chip
http://www.moates.net/hdr1-memcal-heade ... l?cPath=64

This is what would read the chip/bin to your computer.
http://www.moates.net/burn2-chip-progra ... l?cPath=64

This would be an easy way to install a newer chip that will erase and write many times without soldering in a new chip to your memcal.
http://www.moates.net/g1-memory-adapter ... l?cPath=64

Then you could burn/write a bin file that was a closed loop bin to begin with. Some export bins do not have what is needed in xdf file to make them closed loop. Something is missing? We have tried on an Export bin in $EE and $42 with no success. It was easier to use a closed loop bin burned to new chip. That and any change to your bin will need equipment listed above of some sort.

I have also seen export vehicles come with O2 sensors yet the ECM bin file was closed loop? Very strange why GM would put in an O2 sensor when it was disabled.

Yes your car will run better and get better fuel mileage with O2 sensor, but if your fuel still contains lead the O2 sensor will only last 50 to 500 hours of operation. Instead of 30 to 100,000 miles on unleaded fuel.

ATBF is for a 01227730 ECM 3.1L LHO engine Auto tranny. I don't know these cars well enough to say if it is $6D $88 or $A1.

.950 mv is very rich and if it not moving/swinging back and forth I doubt your bin is capable or adjusted for closed loop.

HTH!
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Post by robertisaar » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:12 am

if the O2 sensor is not swinging, it's not closed loop.

the "swinging" only happens due to the ECM's logic of attempting to maintain stoich, but if you're in open loop all of the time, then no correction occurs, thus no swinging.

worst case scenario, you could program in a USDM BIN and then you'll have basically a US market car, closed loop fueling included.

m_abdi
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thanks for help

Post by m_abdi » Fri Jan 20, 2012 5:25 am

Dear freinds.

this ecu is damage now.
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Post by robertisaar » Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:14 am

m_abdi:

the reason your car isn't going into closed loop is because GM disabled it in the calibration. once it gets re-enabled, either by modifying your existing BIN or starting off with one that already has closed loop enabled, then the ECM will use the O2 sensor's signal.

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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Fri Jan 20, 2012 7:35 pm

Remember this post from above? This is how you could modify the chip in ECM. The chip has the bin file on it. The bin file says Open Loop!

EagleMark wrote:There's some hardware you need to read your bin. The bin is the file on your chip.

This inserts into the memcal to read the chip
http://www.moates.net/hdr1-memcal-heade ... l?cPath=64

This is what would read the chip/bin to your computer.
http://www.moates.net/burn2-chip-progra ... l?cPath=64

This would be an easy way to install a newer chip that will erase and write many times without soldering in a new chip to your memcal.
http://www.moates.net/g1-memory-adapter ... l?cPath=64

Then you could burn/write a bin file that was a closed loop bin to begin with.

HTH!
Or since your really not needing to tune the engine for modifications you could probably buy a Memcal (chip) from USA cheaper that is closed loop and just plug it in. But it would have to be correct for your engine. eBay has many that would probably ship International.
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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Fri Jan 20, 2012 7:42 pm

Just ask this guy on eBay for what you need. I have bought stuff from him for ten years. He would get you the exact chip/Memcal you need and if you need 50 he would give a great deal.

http://myworld.ebay.com/ragged/?_trksid=p4340.l2559
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Post by robertisaar » Sat Jan 21, 2012 7:20 am

Ragged is an awesome guy to deal with, i've bought a few harnesses from him before, along with a MEMCAL or two.

m_abdi
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Post by m_abdi » Sat Jan 21, 2012 7:25 am

thanks alot

i found my eprom is 16143513 and use atbf. and it,s so similar $88.

m_abdi
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$55

Post by m_abdi » Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:52 am

hello again
does tuner pro support $55 mask?
$55 1227730 87 - 88 Celebrity, 6000, Ciera, Cutlass, Century 2.8L LB6 27C128

i think it,s my ecu type.

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Post by EagleMark » Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:29 am

I have a $55.xdf for making changes to bin file, but don't know which ALDL file to make an adx with? Is it an A car, L car, W car?

With proper information yes the ADX file can be made as well.
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Post by m_abdi » Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:54 am

Hi.
what about cadialc sevil cars?
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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:13 pm

You could probaly make one since your electronics in collage. Look at the chip in memcal. The header goes through memcal into chip, thats it. Not the other parts of memcal. Then you could read chip with eprom programmer.

But without the other chip or adapter for newer style EEPROM that can be erased by clicking erase. You will need to remove sticker that covers a window and apply UV light to erase chip. Then use your home made header and eprom progammer to write new bin file on chip.

This is not always easy as the chip could be ruined...
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m_abdi
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thx

Post by m_abdi » Tue Jan 24, 2012 11:08 pm

dear eagle mark.

thank you for all.
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Post by EagleMark » Wed Jan 25, 2012 6:28 am

That header is just wires runing into memcal where chip is, to get to chip and other end slips into Zif socket on programmer.

Yes your programmer can read and write. But the chip can not be erased, it need UV light in window under sticker to erase.
http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/How_ ... g_an_EPROM
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Post by m_abdi » Wed Jan 25, 2012 1:00 pm

hello

do you mean that if i dont have tihs header i cant read chip?

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Post by EagleMark » Wed Jan 25, 2012 1:43 pm

Yes! You will have to make one from wires sticking into memcal socket. The chip does not remove from Memcal socket.

Also UV light to erase before write chip.
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m_abdi
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it,s work

Post by m_abdi » Wed Feb 01, 2012 5:28 am

hello

i open my ecu. and one of my friend give me a memcal of gm that was for 1987 gm beretta car. it was amal bin file.
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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Wed Feb 01, 2012 6:27 am

Sure, but you could too with TunerPro. We could just find the Non Export, closed loop bin file for this car.

Don't forget the header is not your only obstacle! You need proper UV light to erase chip through window in chip under sticker. Then burn new bin file on chip. This can destroy chip if not done properly!!! Do you have a spare memcal in case it goes bad so you can still drive car?

It's a shame your country is being cut off from the rest of the world! You can't buy anything from internet? Or is it nothing can be shipped there? Or is it money exchange rate? It's hard for me to imagine living in a country cut off from the rest of the free world?

I would like to help you because you are just like us, an auto enthusiast. I have a friend in Russia who did this same type project on a 1995 Chevy Impala SS that was export, closed loop and another in Dubai. This was years ago but we still exchange emails and talk of family and cultures (we leave politics out). It's amazing to get to know people from differant countries end up being so common, we are all the same just people![/img]
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Post by m_abdi » Wed Feb 01, 2012 12:42 pm

thanks you for replay
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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Wed Feb 01, 2012 5:34 pm

Wow that was a big history lesson, I enjoyed hearing about your automotive industry.

I have heard that the majority of people there oppose what their goverment is doing but we understand death comes easy for those who protest. I'd like to see your people be part of the world again. What is happening now is not good for anyone in the world and your people are suffering because of it.

Yes if your freind is professional he should be able to erase chip with UV light at proper time. Then yes you can write to chip with header and programmer just like you read the chip.

Have you read the chip yet? Can you email the bin file?

If you have read chip and see 180c is diabling closed loop that would be an easy fix and write chip. If not we can find a bin file for it that is closed loop. But we have found this does not always work, something else in code TunerPro can not see was still preventing closed loop.
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Post by EagleMark » Wed Feb 01, 2012 5:58 pm

Since you had mentioned you do not have much in the way of service manuals over there I have a few GM service documents, in english, that may help you guys diagnose problems. They give step by step instructions how to diagnose each circuit of the EFI system. I have 3 you can download and read with Adobe. it is a pdf file.

And you can find many bin, adx, xdf wiring files here:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gearhead-efi/

The documents that will really help are named:
1. TBIcodes.pdf which is TBI injection
2. TPIcodes.pdf which is V8 MPFI
3. v6codes.pdf which I think is for your car!!! :D
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gearhead-ef ... 6codes.pdf
1990 Chevy Suburban
1994 Buick RoadMaSSter Estate Wagon LT1.
1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 TBI

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m_abdi
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Post by m_abdi » Thu Feb 02, 2012 9:57 am

Hello.
I have deal with my friend in tomorow for read chip with my hdr header.

Then i email it.

Beacuse i go to closed loop with another memcal with amal bin chip,i guess it is disable by gm with high tempture.

Sorry if bother you. I am so excited for tomorow...

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Post by EagleMark » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:12 am

No bother! I am excited to help you! :D
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1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 TBI

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Post by m_abdi » Sat Feb 04, 2012 2:33 am

hello

thank you.
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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Sat Feb 04, 2012 8:22 am

m_abdi wrote: hello
i send my bin file for you in pm.i read it with 27c256 programm and it give me that 32k bin file that i think it is correct.

i see it,s disable closed loop with 151.25c temp.and i must chenge it to 58c. but i think i must chenge some other parameter for open loop.

i compare it win azty.bin file and see launch mode is 2sec and for my bin is 1 second.
i see highway mode is disabled too,and minumun and max rpm for block learn is disable too. and tcc lock disable and enable for low gear is disable too.(my car is 3 speed transmision with tcc lock)

and it,s my log.
http://uppit.com/0lfp8jj7eggm/j6.adl

if you check open loop afr vs coolent temp vs map in the tables/functions in tuner pro,
and compare it with my log (j6.adl),you see my target air fuel ratio in idle is 12.80 but in table is 14.5

how can i correct it in open loop.

and another question is i have another memcal of my ecu type 1227730 that is not atbf,it is amal.
if i write my atbf bin to this amal chip is everything ok and it work similar of atbf, another inside ic and chip look like same as my memcal,and it,s use 27c256 chip too.
beacuse i dont want to earse my orginal memcal,it is for back up,and i want to write to this new chip that i take form my friend(amal)

now,i insert this memcal to uv light of money check!!!.(this is device that we check money for find fake money)
thank you.
Here is what I sent you PM so others know and may help.
I compared your bin to a US closed loop and yours "Min. Closed Loop Coolant Temp. " is 151.25 and the compare is 39.50 this is celcius, not fairenhight.

Also "Warm Closed Loop Enable Timer" yours 106.0 seconds and the compare was 64. seconds so may as well change that.

UV Light can damage your eyes!!!!

If the Memcal does not fit then get the window as close as possible to light. Do not look at light it will damage your eyes with door open!!!

Try 5 minutes and read memcal to see if blank, if not another 5 minutes to see if blank, again and again. It will erase further away from center of light directly underneath just take more time. Less time is better. So check every 5 minutes if door is open and farther away then UV eraser is designed for.


But now you see all these other changes I would not try to make all those changes to your bin. Just erase chip and write with new bin for that car. It is $88
The only bin I can find for an A car 3.1 auto is APUS and is here:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gearhead-efi/bin/

Or try and make all those changes?

I think the AMAL memcal you have will work if you erase and write with new bin. But it is a 2.8L and yours is 3.1L so the limp home chip and possibly knock module in memcal are differant. But it would be better to experiment on that memcal to see if you can erase and write without damageing your memcal. It will then run on new bin but limp home chip and knock may be wrong. But if it works you can then do your memcal.
m_abdi wrote:now,i insert this memcal to uv light of money check!!!.(this is device that we check money for find fake money)
thank you.
I think the tranlation here is wrong and money should be memory.
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1994 Buick RoadMaSSter Estate Wagon LT1.
1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 TBI

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thanks

Post by m_abdi » Sat Feb 04, 2012 9:11 am

hello and thank you so much.

can i enable highway mode in my car?

apus in for $6d mask i think

i compare with this
http://uppit.com/pwr6yxpo0ne5/azty.bin

i copy closed throttle open loop afr vs temp table too from azty
and highway constant and openloop idle afr vs map vs temp table too.

and set closed loop min temp 62c

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Post by EagleMark » Sat Feb 04, 2012 9:54 am

I saw some paremeters for Highway mode but even though they are there it is usually diabled some where and I do not know how to enable in that bin.

AZTY is for F body car. There are a lot of bin files available for that, your origanal bin came up as an A body car, although both 3.1 F body is rear wheel drive and yours is front wheel drive? So I did not want to give you something differant or may have trans controls issues. Although it may work fine

The reason I say just write a new bin instead of making all the changes in your bin is I have seen this done before and after all the changes are met it still does not go closed loop. Something in bin not identified in XDF is changed. Yours may work!

But even if you get your stock chip to erase, then re write. It may only do this once, I have done them up to 4 times, then it seems they go bad? So if you had a stock bin and write to chip and it works then GREAT! we are done. Now if you could get mail or send money we could get you parts that re write 1000 times and erase with click of button, no UV light erase.

I don't know if it is allowed to send mail with chip to Iran or if Iran would allow mail? I could mail you a chip, you could cut off old chip, solder in new chip and use your header to erase and write as many times as you want. Maybe you have access to this newer chip from your electronic freind?
http://www.moates.net/c2-sst-27sf512-ch ... l?cPath=26

You can carefully remove old and replace and solder in new, your electronic frind should be able to do this. But I am afraid if you try you could damage what you have and since replacement is hard it is not something you should experiment, practice or learn on.

Here is how to solder in new chip to memcal. It shows a dip socket soldered in then push in chip. But I found it easier to just push in chip with a little flux on each pin of chip, then solder.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inject ... SF512-Chip
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Post by m_abdi » Sat Feb 04, 2012 10:06 am

Hello.
Here we hava many of this 29c256 chip that can earse and write simple.

Thank you for your favor.

But i must design electronic board like g1 mem adaptor for it.

if this 27c2356 chip in orginal memcal can remove and i can install new 29c256 on memcal it was great.

but this chip can not disconect from socket.

now i have to design g1 mem adaptor myself and install 29c256 eprom that can earse simple.

now,i put my amal memcal in uv for 4 hours! beacuse i have simple device that have darked uv light for testing money(no memory). our paper money have something that shin in uv. we use it for test certificated of money and bank check.

now,tomorow i go to my friend.may be i damage my stock,or may be it earse compeltely.

i chenge my orginal bin this parameter:

closed loop temp.
table of idle afr in open loop.
table open loop afr vs map vs temp(my orginal bin was very rich target)
high way mode
and min and max rpm for block learn.

my car is fron wheel drive.and platfrom is ab.and dont have egr

http://uppit.com/3o7eued6fzhu/13112009(009).jpg
this pic of my car.

thank you.

m_abdi
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Post by m_abdi » Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:53 am

hello

i disconect chip from memcal like you help me.and install socket for it.!!!

:shock:

and write in 28c256 ic.

now i am go to check.maybe i damage my memcal!!!

bye now

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Post by EagleMark » Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:19 am

So you found a chip and a way to install a new chip into memcal? Great!

Remeber if you use a bigger memory size chip the bin file needs to be write to end of chip. In other words writing needs differant offsets. Here is a list of offsets.'
http://support.moates.net/2010/04/05/pr ... g-offsets/

Nice looking car! :D
now,i put my amal memcal in uv for 4 hours! beacuse i have simple device that have darked uv light for testing money(no memory). our paper money have something that shin in uv. we use it for test certificated of money and bank check.
Ah! Now I understand why you were saying money when talking about memory.

Any UV light can erase a chip, it is just a matter of time and strength of UV light. My understanding is high power UV light will erase quickly but to much can damge. If you pull the sticker off and place chip outside in sunlight it will erase in about a month, but this low level will not damage... but I have never tried?
1990 Chevy Suburban
1994 Buick RoadMaSSter Estate Wagon LT1.
1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 TBI

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m_abdi
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Location: iran

hoooorrraaa

Post by m_abdi » Tue Feb 07, 2012 12:43 am

hello.

thank you tuner pro programmer and thank you my dear freind eglemark.


sy.
Last edited by m_abdi on Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

m_abdi
Posts: 36
Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:05 am
Location: iran

Post by m_abdi » Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:09 am

hi

can i upgrade from $88 mask to $a1?

beacuse the xdf is not same?

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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:25 am

Woo Hoo! :D Congratulations!

I wouldn't change AFR higher then stock, could be to lean and hurt motor or casue lean missfire. 17 to 1 is plenty high!

I have seen other guys change mask id in these ECM, but must start with correct bin for your car. Lots of bins at links I gave you.

Getting into closed loop earlier/lower temp is better. It may be other settings in that bin file causing the issue because it was an open loop bin to start. Since you can write and erase new chip now easily try a complete new bin. Or try change to new mask bin, changes are easy now you have newer EEPROM!

Before you jump to to many tuning changes make sure mechanical issues are correct, like clean fuel filter, check fuel pressure, new spark plugs, clean air filter, your very dusty there correct? All the basics!
1990 Chevy Suburban
1994 Buick RoadMaSSter Estate Wagon LT1.
1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 TBI

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m_abdi
Posts: 36
Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:05 am
Location: iran

knock

Post by m_abdi » Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:36 pm

hello .

i connect tuner pro to my car and run for 40 min.

when i check my drive i see i am in closed loop and afr is 14.7 .

but when i want to accelerate knock kount 5 time.

which chenge i must do. spark advance or knock retard?

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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Thu Feb 09, 2012 7:37 am

To much spark advance will cause Knock. The knock retard is how much it takes out.

Since your bin was open loop, now closed loop AFR have changed, which means spark advance needs have changed. You may want to compare your bin to a closed loop bin from same car and see how much differnce there is in the entire spark table? May want to change the whole table to closed loop bin if they are all differant.

Since you can burn chips now many times without UV light why not just write a totally new bin from closed loop bin for your car? Then check and tune? But you are so close I don't know if it worth the time?

You should always get a knock count once per start up after quifiers are met the ECM does a forced knock test. So be sure it is not that.

If done while accelerating you can take out a couple degrees in that spark advance cell.
1990 Chevy Suburban
1994 Buick RoadMaSSter Estate Wagon LT1.
1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 TBI

GearHead-EFI.com EFI Conversions and Chip Tuners!

m_abdi
Posts: 36
Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:05 am
Location: iran

question

Post by m_abdi » Sat Feb 11, 2012 1:38 am

hello.

i apply this chenge:

1- closed loop.
2-tcc was enable only for high gear,i enable it for low gear.
3-enable high way mode (in mph 50 afr 15.4 and with highway spark advance mode)
4-chenge closed throtthle afr in open loop vs temp.
5- chenge spark advance vs map vs rmp

question is: in the constants my orginla initial spark advance is 59.77 and in the all same bin file is 9.84.

what is the initial spark advance? is it spark advance when start off engine?

what is initial time out spark bias?
why my orginal bin set it to 59.77? it,s too high ,i think.

what is diffrent between power enrich and accel enrich?

what is maximum allowable AFR?

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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Sat Feb 11, 2012 5:00 am

It sounds like your comparing your bin from your car that has DIS Distributorless Ignition System to a distributor car bin? This is why spark bias is so different. If it was on your stock bin I would not change it. I only ever found one bin for your car, listed above to compare to. Yes there are more with same mask ID but different cars and sounds like different ignition systems.

AE Accell enrich is when you open throttle to give a little more gas, like a carburetor accelerator pump.

PE Power Enrich is for like WOT Wide Open Throttle or close to it. High load on engine. Like a power enrich valve in carburetor.

Max AFR? That is a tough question and changes in engine types. I would look at other bins, like yours from same car. Most I have ever seen or heard people using safely is 16.2 may be higher in some cars but I have never seen one.
1990 Chevy Suburban
1994 Buick RoadMaSSter Estate Wagon LT1.
1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 TBI

GearHead-EFI.com EFI Conversions and Chip Tuners!

m_abdi
Posts: 36
Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:05 am
Location: iran

Post by m_abdi » Sat Feb 11, 2012 6:14 am

ok.thanks
Last edited by m_abdi on Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Sat Feb 11, 2012 8:59 am

The things you noted as changed are all good if data shows they need it.

But I would not change Initial Spark adance because I think you are comparing distributor engine 9.xx degrees and DIS engine 59.xx degrees. This is where distributor is set, not when engine is started.

I'll take a look at your log later when I have time but you seem to be doing well! :D
1990 Chevy Suburban
1994 Buick RoadMaSSter Estate Wagon LT1.
1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 TBI

GearHead-EFI.com EFI Conversions and Chip Tuners!

m_abdi
Posts: 36
Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:05 am
Location: iran

Post by m_abdi » Sat Feb 11, 2012 2:30 pm

hello again

i undestand initial spark advance. you are right. diffrent dis.
Last edited by m_abdi on Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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EagleMark
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Post by EagleMark » Sat Feb 11, 2012 4:00 pm

Although all the options are in there for Highway Lean Cruise it is usually disabled somewhere else in bin. GM had this built in for better fuel milage but EPA said it was a emmissions defeting device and they had to turn it off.

So, somewhere in your bin is something not allowing Highway lean cruise. This is a problem with many bins on many masks. I only know how to enable it in 1227747 ECM.

I would not change initail spark setting, most bins have some hot start settings that may help. But 4-7 seconds is not horrible. Is it very hot there? May try turn key on, no start, turn key off for 20 seconds and try restart. May be hot fuel, this would turn on fuel pump to cool gas in MPFI fuel rails. If not one of the hot start settings.

I don't remember the xdf your useing but some have more things detailed then others. It is a matter of having a bin hx code dissasembled and commented so you can add paremeters to xdf. This is a subject I know little of...
1990 Chevy Suburban
1994 Buick RoadMaSSter Estate Wagon LT1.
1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 TBI

GearHead-EFI.com EFI Conversions and Chip Tuners!

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